Mexico Day 110: A nice change of pace

Sayulita to Altavista, Nayarit //

Sayulita has been fascinating to experience, but we’re ready to move on.  Driving only a dozen or so blocks takes us out of town and back to Highway 200.  We’re not sure where we’re headed today; we’re simply in search of something different.  

At a Pemex gas station not far up the road, we pull up to the pump beside another truck camper and wait for the attendant to come pump our fuel.  (All gas stations in Mexico are full-service.) It appears there is only one attendant today for the entire station, and those of us in need of diesel are at a separate island on the farthest end of the lot.  The guy in the truck camper next to us appears antsy.  We watch as he walks over to the sole attendant who is tending to another vehicle.  He’s throwing his hands in the air and obviously complaining about the wait.  

One of the negative talking points about traveling around Mexico is gas station scams.  We’ve never been on the receiving end of a scam, but stories of attendants getting more money out of you than they’re due aren’t uncommon.  After witnessing our fellow American’s behavior, we wonder how often it’s a bad attitude that tests the morality of a gas station attendant.  Since we are both Americans in truck campers parked at the same pump, Mark decides not to take the chance of being associated with the guy.  We return to the highway, we can find fuel at another station.

Lo de Marcos is the next beach town up the coast that we decide to scope out.  The iOverlander app cites several RV parks in town, but they’re all at a price point higher than anything we’ve ever paid in Mexico.  200-300 pesos ($10-15) per night is what we’ve become accustomed to paying; here in Lo de Marcos, the rates are 600-900 pesos ($30-45).  Mostly because we’re curious to see what the place is like and if it’s worth it, we drive by several of the RV parks and stop and walk around some as well.  Just like Sayulita, they look to be primarily occupied by RVs that reside there either long-term or permanently.  The trailers and motorhomes are so large that any breeze that might exist can’t get through, and your view is limited to that of the white box next to you.  The town itself looks cool, far more low-key than Sayulita, but we see no reason to spend 2-3x what we’re used to.  We get back on the highway and continue north.

The next place that looks intriguing is a ranch that is located a few miles inland.  A quiet road carries us up into the hills, through a long tunnel of trees, and eventually brings us to a two-track dirt road that leads to Altavista RV Park.  We already feel as though we’ve found something much more our style.  We pull into a large, open field occupied by one RV.  Upon choosing a place to park, we notice what must be over 50 pedestals for water and electrical hookups.  But the place looked seemingly deserted.  Has it ever been busy?  Or did the dream far exceed the demand?  

The property itself is beautiful.  There are banana trees, jackfruit trees, and passion fruit trees lining the perimeter.  Palm-covered hills stretch on for miles, and from where we’re parked is an open view of the Pacific.  A spectacular sunset paints the sky every possible shade of pink and orange.  While I’m out taking photos, the owners, Jose and his wife, come by with samples of the fruit that they grow here on their property.  For a long time I’ve wanted to try jackfruit and I’m immediately hooked on its sweet flavor and velvety texture.  The bananas and passion fruit are just as good.  With pride, Jose tells us that it’s all organic.  When I rave about the flavor, he smiles and nods.  He knows his fruit is good.

It turns out the other RV here is not occupied.  With Jose and his family living on the other end of the property, Mark and I are more alone than we’ve been in months.  It feels odd.  But the silence is pure bliss.  It’s exactly the change of pace we were looking for.

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