Mexico Day 79: The sights, sounds and scents of Oaxaca city

Santa Maria del Tule, Oaxaca //

On the docket today is a trip to Oaxaca city.  At noon Mark and I set off on foot down the streets of El Tule with the hopes that we’ll be able to hail a cab.  That task couldn’t be any easier and within minutes we’re riding in the back of an old beat up sedan, sans seat belts, and heading towards Oaxaca Centro.  After a twenty minute ride, for the cost of $8, we’re dropped off at the bustling square in the middle of the city.  

Our reason for going to the city is simply to explore, walk the streets, eat some good food, and hopefully see some beautiful street art.  Oaxaca is known to be one of the most colorful and culturally-rich cities in Mexico.  It’s also said to be the food capital of the country.  I’ve been excited to experience Oaxaca first-hand for months now but upon our arrival I’m overwhelmed by choice.  It’s hard to know which direction to turn as there are people and shops and colorful streets in every direction.  

While zigzagging our way around the busy city streets we come to Mercado Benito Juárez.  This market, which occupies several acres of ground, is unlike anything I’ve ever seen before.  Narrow aisles, barely wide enough for two people to walk down, are lined with every possible consumable, decorative, and dry good you could imagine.  The very first stalls that catch my eye are the half a dozen that are selling whole chickens in the open air with their legs hanging over the counter and into the way of the aisle.  I go on to see baskets overflowing with fresh produce, counters piled high with fish, an entire stall stocked to the brim with fresh herbs, long lines of sausage links dangling from the frames of butcher counters, buckets filled with fresh cut flowers, and stacks of every type and cut of meat you could think of.  Each stall is hardly the width of a small car so my senses are hit with something new every few steps.  There are enticing aromas followed by unwelcome scents, every few seconds my nose oscillates between interest and disgust.  Upon exiting the market, where the bright light of day and abundance of oxygen is abrupt and welcome, I stand still on the sidewalk in bewilderment.  Never before have my senses felt so bombarded.

While Mark & I continue wandering the streets we acknowledge the fact that we are the furthest thing from city people.  As beautiful as it is and as much as this incredible city has to offer, we’re both overwhelmed more than anything.  It’s no wonder we’ve based our lives entirely around seeking out and spending time in natural places.  With the heat of the mid-day sun beating down on the concrete-covered city, every pedestrian that is moving to and fro can be found within the 24” wide shadow being cast from the buildings on the east side of the street.  We decide to seek out a quiet restaurant for lunch and a reprieve.

I spent days researching Oaxaca’s impressive restaurant offerings.  The city is known for its gastronomy and food of all kinds can be found here.  Every place I scoped out on google and every recommendation graciously provided by a friend with first-hand experience looks incredible.  And yet, only one thing stood out as being exactly what I wanted to eat in that moment.  

A burger.

Nothing makes me feel more American and less adventurous than telling you I went to Oaxaca and ate a burger.  But after two and half months in Mexico, a burger never sounded better.  The vibrant green salad that Mark and I shared in addition to the burger rounded out a delightful meal.  While I’m slightly embarrassed I have zero regrets.  

A couple of more hours was spent walking the streets of Oaxaca in search of street art.  I love a good mural and Oaxaca has many.  Once the sun was on its way towards the horizon and with our feet ready for a break, we made our way into another cab and back to the RV park.  In our four hour walking tour of Oaxaca we decided that the vibrant city has far more to offer than what can be seen in a day.  To really appreciate the endless nooks & crannies, spending at least a month in an AirBnB in Oaxaca would be the way to go.  I may not be a city person but I can see how bite-sized daily outings would never fail to deliver something fun, interesting, tasty, or memorable.  Today I feel like we simply peered through the looking glass.  

I may prefer the natural world but Oaxaca has a beauty and an intrigue all its own.  It is definitely a place I could see myself returning to.

…

Interested in camping in Baja?
Check out our Baja Camping Guide!